How to Install SPC Vinyl Plank Flooring

This is the method for every plank we stock: Alpine, Montclair, Harper and Citadel. Plan a day for an average bedroom, two for a large open area.

Steps

1. Acclimate the boxes

   Store the unopened boxes flat in the room for 48 hours at normal living temperature (65 to 85°F).

2. Prepare the subfloor

   Remove carpet and pad, scrape high spots and fill dips so the floor is flat within 3/16" over 10 feet. Vacuum thoroughly.

3. Remove baseboards and undercut door casings

   Pull baseboards and undercut door jambs with a jamb saw so planks slide underneath.

4. Plan the layout

   Run planks parallel to the longest wall or main light source. Measure the room width so the first and last rows are at least 2" wide.

5. Set the expansion gap

   Place 1/4" spacers against every wall and fixed object. The floor must float freely.

6. Lay the first row

   Start in a left corner with the tongue side facing the wall. Click short ends together by angling and pressing down.

7. Stagger the joints

   Begin the next row with the cut-off piece from the last row, keeping end joints at least 8" apart.

8. Click each row in

   Angle the long side into the previous row, lower it flat and tap gently with a tapping block to close any gap.

9. Cut the last row and fit around obstacles

   Score and snap planks with a utility knife. Use a jigsaw for pipes and door frames, keeping the 1/4" gap.

10. Finish with trims

    Remove spacers, install transition trims at doorways and reinstall baseboards nailed to the wall, never through the floor.

Common mistakes

• No expansion gap. The floor needs room to move with the seasons. Tight to the wall, it can buckle.
• Adding a foam pad. The pad is already attached. A second one lets the joints flex and break.
• Short end joints lined up. Keep them at least 8″ apart or the floor looks fake and the rows lose strength.
• Pinning the floor. Kitchen islands and built-in cabinets go in first; the floor runs up to them with a gap.